Akad or Aakad or 3QAD
These are small Moroccan buttons made of braided silk and gold thread, used to close the caftan all the way down the front. Akaads are fastened with eyelets, which are handmade from silk or gold thread. The akads are attached to the caftan one by one by hand by the "maalem". This is a traditional, handcrafted finish that requires a real mastery of traditional caftan-making skills.
AÂMARA or SFIFA
Silk and gold threads used for embroidery, trimmings and other finishes applied to the caftan.
MOUZOUNA AND AÂQIQ
Respectively sequins and pearls used to make pearl embroideries. finezine has a genuine expertise in the meticulous, time-consuming creation of floral, ethnic or geometric motifs...
Badiya or Badiiya
Sleeveless women's caftan. Lighter and easier to wear.
Berchmane
Handmade trimmings made by two people, one braiding the threads while the other secures them. Used to finish jellabas.
Brid
Relief embroidery with silk thread and skalli.
Tersane
A technique whereby the maâlem twists several threads of silk or gold to increase the thickness of the thread. Tersane is the basis of the caftan finish.
Darss or Dars
Fine needlework lace with a pattern reminiscent of teeth(darsa). It is found at the ends of women's caftans, tunics or jellabas.
Debbana OR Blibla
Traditional needlework pattern of overlapping circles evoking the appearance of a fly(debbana).
Defra OR Dfira
Braided trimmings used to finish the edges of Moroccan caftans.
Fekroune (TURTLE), Kfal or bzim
Belt jewelry worn on the mdamma.
Foukia or Dfina
The top piece, over the caftan, which is usually left open. Sometimes called a dfina.
Fssala
Traditional T-shaped caftan cut. Today, the caftan is closer to the body and more feminine.
Hrir
Natural silk thread in a variety of colors.
Hzam
Arabic belt used to adjust the caftan around the waist.
JABADOR
Three-piece men's ensemble - sarouel, tunic and vest, generally made from hayati (Swiss voile) enmlifa (fine wool) cotton weaves with maâlem or silk thread finish.
JELLABA
Hooded, ankle-length tunic, a staple of Moroccan women's and men's wardrobes. Like the caftan, the jellaba is built around a "T" shape. Regularly updated, it has undergone a number of transformations in recent years, even becoming a mini-dress...
JIAB
Deep side pockets integrated into kmiss, sarouel, jellaba and caftan. The contemporary version of the caftan features smaller decorative pockets on the front. It's also known as a mdamma à jiab de Fès when it features a zipper. Rigid and difficult to alter, mdamma à jiab are generally made-to-measure for customers.
JOHARA
Silk fabric from Lyon, worked in successive full stripes and floral motifs, used for kmiss to be worn under caftans and dars finishes. Still used today for jellaba kmiss and under bridal labssa fassia.
KARMOUSSA
Giant fig-shapedAkad made of braided silk thread.
KITANE
Trimmings made of coiled silk or skalli threads, used by maâlems to adorn or finish caftans.
LABSSA
Bride's outfit(labssa lkbira) but also the name given to the caftan when it's made up of several pieces. Generally, the labsa is made up of amansouriya worn over a less elaborate coordinated caftan, both belted.
M'RAMMA
Silk loom.
MAÂLEMS
Master craftsmen embroiderers, tailors, but also specialized in making mdammates and chrabel. The work of maâlmias and embroiderers represents Morocco's cultural heritage. The preservation of these arts and crafts is essential to the perpetuation of traditional Moroccan sewing know-how. Zhor Raïs, through his association "De Fil en Aiguille", strives to promote the work of these men and women behind the scenes.
MAJDOULE
A fine, long cord made of braided silk or gold thread that is wrapped several times around the waist. Practical and lightweight, the majdoule is worn higher or lower, sometimes even as a takhmal as a fashion accessory.
MANSOURIYA OR DFINA
Upper part of the caftan when it consists of two pieces. Made from a lightweight fabric, the mansouriya or dfina is generally more richly embellished than the rest of the outfit, with larger side and front slits to show part of the caftan worn underneath.
MDAMMA
Initially a simple accessory, the mdamma (belt) has since become an element of identity, enabling people to display their social class, wealth and origins. The traditional mdamma is a rigid belt made from hand-embroidered fabric attached to a cardboard or canvas frame. Fabric mdammas are coordinated with the caftan, but come in different sizes and styles. Among the most traditional, the skalli samm (gold or silver) mdamma from Fez is a must-have for women's wardrobes, and can be worn with any type of caftan. The b-dhab or b-nakra mdamma (in solid gold or silver) was traditionally part of the bride's dowry, especially among families of notables. Like the caftan, the mdamma follows trends in both shape and width. Originally 7 to 8 cm wide and entirely embroidered with skalli, the mdamma evolved into a spectacular corset belt in the early 2000s. After being blithely denatured and made importable (up to 15cm wide), the Moroccan belt has returned to more human and aesthetic proportions, with widths of less than 13cm, and is also gaining in flexibility.
MELOUI
Band of trimmings wrapped in silk or gold thread that the maâlem affixes with the dfira.
MOUKH OR MSSEWESSE
Brain-shaped skalli thread embroidery motif created by the maâlem with the tersane.
MTAKKAB
Openwork lace needlework using silk thread. This technique is very similar to chbika work, with motifs similar to English embroidery.
NTAÂ
Gold-thread embroidery(tarz) from Fez Very heavy and heavy, it is often worked on velvet by maâlems. Ntaâ tarz often features the peacock design, which is thought to have been inherited from ancient trade between China and Morocco.
OKKAZ
Gold tiara set with precious stones from Fez, worn by brides during the traditional doura.
RANDA
Fine needle lace work. Originally, randa was applied to the collars and sleeves of men's kmiss.
SADRIYA
(Waistcoat) Men's garment of Turkish and Andalusian origin, adopted by women as an ornamental accessory to the caftan. The world of vests has many variants: extra-short, sleeveless, with small epaulette sleeves (also known as oudinates), etc. The 2000s have brought the vest back into fashion, first as a long, belted garment, then as a very short bolero...
SEBNIA
(fechtul for the Jewish kessou el kbira ) Richly embroidered or colorfully woven scarf worn by women on their heads, particularly in northern Morocco.
SELHAM
Moroccan cape with hood, originally part of the men's wardrobe. Traditionally made from Ouazzane, Sousdi and Mlifa habba wools for men and finer wools for women.
SAROUEL KANDRISSA
Loose, baggy pants tightened at the ankles, usually worn under the caftan.
SFIFA
Silk thread or skalli trimmings braided by maâlems on the mramma or made by machine. The extra-wide sfifa is traditionally emblematic of Labssa Lakhzaniya (Royal Court).
SKALLI SAMM
Gold or silver thread used to embroider caftans.
TABTINE
Caftan lining, usually in silk. Beware of linings, which can conceal manufacturing faults and sometimes hold unpleasant surprises: machine work sold as handmade or approximate finishing.
TAKRIR
Silk thread crochet pattern with pompons, originally created for traditional Moroccan salons and rarely used by couturiers.
TEKHMAL
Silk thread cord used to roll up caftan sleeves. The sophisticated version of tekhmal is made of gold adorned with precious stones (usually rough-cut emeralds and rubies found in antique Moroccan jewelry). The last two decades have seen the emergence of tekhmal made from elastic, adorned with scraps of caftan fabric, as well as mini-tekhmal more commonly known as "chouchous" to be placed directly on the sleeves. These were more practical but less aesthetic accessories, until 2007, when Leïla Benmilh (Shérazade Couture) designed a range of sophisticated chouchous, accessories in their own right that could also be worn over Western blouses.
TARZ
Embroidery in its most global sense. There are several types of embroidery from different regions of Morocco. For example, tarz lhsabégalementcalled tarz al gharza, originating in Fès, is made using a canvas on which embroiderers count the holes. It can be identified by its geometric motifs in monochrome silk thread. Tarz ntaâ is known for its monochromy. It is made with gold thread on silk velvet. Tetouani tarz, recognizable by its multicolored floral motifs, is worked in volume. Others include tarz el meknassi, characterized by its squared or diagonal stitch, and tarz rbati with multicolored floral motifs. The list goes on!
